Cholon: A Local Guide to Saigon’s Chinatown
Cholon means big market, and the name still fits. Saigon’s Chinatown is described as the largest in the world by area, and since July 2025 it sits on a new administrative map. Here is its history, its new wards, its temples, markets and best bowls.
- Cholon is not an official unit. It is the Chinatown spread over old Districts 5 and 6.
- Since 1 July 2025, old wards 11 to 14 form Chợ Lớn ward, 1.67 km².
- Bình Tây Market, 57A Tháp Mười: free, about 6:00-18:00.
- Thiên Hậu Temple, 710 Nguyễn Trãi: free, about 6:00-17:30.
- From Bến Thành: about 8 km, Grab bike about 50,000 VND, 15-20 minutes.
A Short History of Cholon
Chợ Lớn means “big market” in Vietnamese. Its Chinese name, Đê Ngạn, means embankment. Chinese settlers built their market along the old Saigon canal, today’s Hải Thượng Lãn Ông street.
Most of the community is Hoa, with roots in Guangdong and Fujian.
- 1Before 1698
A Minh Hương village
A settlement already stands on the site, then called Đề Ngạn.
- 21782
Massacre and rebuilding
More than 10,000 Hoa are killed by the Tây Sơn. The survivors rebuild.
- 36 June 1865
The Ville de Cholon
A French decree creates the town from villages of three cantons.
- 41 July 1882
A tram to Saigon
A 5 km metre-gauge line links the two towns.
- 527 April 1931
One city
Cholon and Saigon merge into one administrative division. In 1956 the name Chợ Lớn leaves the official city name.
- 61968
The Tết Offensive
Four Australian journalists are killed in Cholon. Near the Quan Âm pagoda, Eddie Adams takes his famous execution photograph.
Cholon After the July 2025 Reform
Old District 5 no longer exists. Resolution 1685/NQ-UBTVQH15, adopted on 16 June 2025, dissolved it. The new map applied from 1 July 2025.
Its wards 11, 12, 13 and 14 were merged into a new ward named Chợ Lớn. That ward covers only part of the neighbourhood people call Cholon.
The seven wards are Chợ Lớn, Chợ Quán, An Đông, Bình Phú, Phú Lâm, Bình Tiên and Bình Tây. Street names did not change.
Our guide to Ho Chi Minh City districts after the reform covers the rest of the city. The same logic applies to old District 1.
| Place | Street address | Ward since July 2025 |
|---|---|---|
| Thiên Hậu Temple | 710 Nguyễn Trãi | Chợ Lớn |
| Nghĩa An Assembly Hall | 676 Nguyễn Trãi | Chợ Lớn |
| Ôn Lăng Assembly Hall | 12 Lão Tử | Chợ Lớn |
| Nhị Phủ Assembly Hall | 264 Hải Thượng Lãn Ông | Chợ Lớn |
| Bình Tây Market | 57A Tháp Mười | Bình Tây |
Where Cholon Is and How to Get There
Cholon sits on the west side of the city, on the west bank of the Saigon River. It covers the whole of old Districts 5 and 6. Old District 8 borders it to the south, along the Tàu Hủ canal. Old Districts 10 and 11 extend it to the north.
Bình Tây Market is about 8 km from Bến Thành. That is the usual reference point if you start from the centre.
- Grab bike: about 50,000 VND, 15 to 20 minutes.
- What to type in the app: the street and number, for example 57A Tháp Mười.
- Time to allow: about 2 hours for the neighbourhood itself, plus the ride.
Staying central? Our Ben Thanh Market guide makes a good comparison.
What to See in Cholon
Bình Tây Market
Chinese merchant Quách Đàm, from Chaozhou, paid for the market. Building began in 1928 and it opened in 1930. It covers 2.5 hectares and has been a listed heritage building since 2015.
The courtyard altar honours the founder. Wholesalers sell by the dozen, so single items are not the point. Allow 45 minutes.
Thiên Hậu Temple
Look up. Incense coils hang from the ceiling and burn for weeks, each with a paper prayer tag. The roof dioramas are Cây Mai ceramics from 1908. Allow 30 minutes. Our guide to Thien Hau Temple covers the entry, the disputed opening hours and the rituals.
The assembly halls
Cholon’s hội quán were built by communities from the same Chinese region. They get their own section below.
Hải Thượng Lãn Ông, the old street
Established in 1864, it has been recognised since July 2010 as one of the oldest preserved urban blocks in the city. It is also the traditional medicine street. Look for the Hào Sĩ Phường alley.
Lương Nhữ Học, the lantern street
The street of lanterns. It matters most at the Lantern Festival, on the 15th day of the first lunar month.
Cha Tam Church
At 25 Học Lạc, free to enter. A plaque marks the pew where Ngô Đình Diệm was arrested on 2 November 1963.
An Đông Market and the Soài Kình Lâm fabric market
An Đông, 34-36 An Dương Vương, sells fabric, clothes and jewellery, 7:00 to 18:00, with few tourists.
Soài Kình Lâm, at 18 An Dương Vương, is the fabric market. For how they compare with central shopping, see our guide to shopping in Ho Chi Minh City.
| Stop | Address | Hours | Entry | Time needed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bình Tây Market | 57A Tháp Mười | About 6:00-18:00 | Free | 45 min |
| Thiên Hậu Temple | 710 Nguyễn Trãi | About 6:00-17:30 | Free | 30 min |
| Cha Tam Church | 25 Học Lạc | Check on the day | Free | Check on the day |
| An Đông Market | 34-36 An Dương Vương | 7:00-18:00 | Free to browse | Check on the day |
Temples and Assembly Halls
A hội quán is an assembly hall. Each one served people from one Chinese region, and each keeps an altar. Thiên Hậu Temple is the best known, but it is not alone on Nguyễn Trãi.
- Nghĩa An Assembly Hall, also called Tuệ Thành, 676 Nguyễn Trãi.
- Ôn Lăng Assembly Hall, 12 Lão Tử, also known as the Quan Âm or Ong Bon pagoda.
- Nhị Phủ Assembly Hall, 264 Hải Thượng Lãn Ông.
- Hà Chương Assembly Hall, 802 Nguyễn Trãi.
- Lệ Châu Assembly Hall, 586 Trần Hưng Đạo, and Quỳnh Phủ Assembly Hall, 276 Trần Hưng Đạo B.
- Nghĩa Nhuận Assembly Hall, 27 Phan Văn Khỏe.
- Minh Hương Gia Thạnh communal house, 380 Trần Hưng Đạo.
Opening hours vary by hall: check on the day.
How to behave inside
These are working places of worship, not museums. Dress as for any temple: shoulders and knees covered is the safe choice.
Walk around people who are praying, never between them and the altar. Keep your voice low. Ask before photographing a person.
Where to Eat in Cholon
Cholon’s kitchens are Chinese-Vietnamese. Three addresses cover noodles, dim sum and pastry.
| Dish | Where | Hours | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mì vịt tiềm, braised duck noodles | Hải Ký Mì Gia, 349-351 Nguyễn Trãi | 10:00-23:00 | About 130,000 VND a bowl |
| Dim sum | Tiến Phát, 18 Ký Hòa | 6:00-12:30, to 12:00 at weekends | 62,000 to 110,000 VND a dish |
| Bánh pía, Teochew pastry | Triệu Minh Hiệp, 123/23 Bình Tây | Check on the day | 219,000 to 299,000 VND a box of 4 |
Hải Ký Mì Gia has served mì vịt tiềm since 1976. The bowl price was measured in March 2025, so allow for a small change.
Tiến Phát is the oldest dim sum house in old District 5, busiest from about 8:00 to 11:00. Triệu Minh Hiệp has made bánh pía by hand for over 75 years.
Around the markets
Look for há cảo, sủi cảo, hoành thánh, hủ tiếu and Lão Mã salt-steamed chicken. Chè or Hong Kong milk tea finish the meal.
Early December brings Chợ Lớn Food Story, a food festival held every year since 2023. Our Saigon street food guide explains the dishes by name.
Practical Tips
Come early. Bình Tây’s wholesale trade peaks between 6:00 and 9:00, and Tiến Phát closes at lunchtime.
Bình Tây Market, Thiên Hậu Temple and Cha Tam Church are free. You pay for food, rides and shopping.
Crowded markets carry the same bag risk as anywhere in the city. Our honest safety guide covers the habits that help.
Cholon in Half a Day
One morning covers the core of Cholon, in this order.
- Bình Tây Market, early. Arrive while the wholesale trade is still running. Allow 45 minutes.
- Thiên Hậu Temple. Thirty minutes under the incense coils.
- Hải Thượng Lãn Ông. Walk the old canal street and its medicine shops.
- A bowl of mì vịt tiềm. Hải Ký Mì Gia opens at 10:00, a good finish.
For the afternoon, pick from our guide to things to do in the city. Or let a guide handle the traffic on our City Tour by motorbike.
Questions we get on the bike
Is Cholon the same as District 5?
Not any more. Old District 5 was dissolved in 2025. Cholon is an unofficial neighbourhood covering old Districts 5 and 6, now spread over seven wards.
What is Chợ Lớn ward?
A ward created on 1 July 2025 from old wards 11, 12, 13 and 14 of District 5. It covers 1.67 km², only part of Cholon.
How do I get to Cholon from District 1?
Bình Tây Market is about 8 km from Bến Thành. A Grab bike costs about 50,000 VND and takes 15 to 20 minutes.
Is Bình Tây Market free?
Yes. It opens about 6:00 to 18:00, with the wholesale trade busiest from 6:00 to 9:00. Check on the day.
How long should I spend in Cholon?
About 2 hours for the neighbourhood. Allow 45 minutes for Bình Tây and 30 for Thiên Hậu Temple.
Clara grew up just outside Saigon and moved to the city five years ago to study. She has been riding its streets ever since.
Most evenings you’ll find her leading our night rides, usually with a bowl of snails waiting at the end. Everything in this guide is what she tells her own guests before the first stop.
See Saigon from the back seat
Four hours on the City Tour, 8:30 AM or 1:30 PM, with a local woman guide at the handlebars. Free cancellation up to 24 hours, no deposit, pay on the day.
